The Spirituality of Surfing
If anyone had ever told me that surfing was a spiritual pursuit, I would have said they were completely nuts. The spirituality of surfing? Bah! Funny, but it really is. I finally get why all those lonely guys in wet suits would be out riding the waves long after the summer crowd had gone. They'd be there early. I'd see them late. Rain didn't keep them away either. So what is the magic of surfing? Well, the only way to really do it is to surrender. The ocean is a powerful, moving force. You aren't going to control it, manipulate it, or outsmart it. The only way to work with it is to become one with it. To do that, you have to surrender. And surrender is bliss. It's the complete letting go...
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